Zvonimir Milčec

The name of Zvonimir Milčec was not familiar to us who don't know well the city of Zagreb, but for the people here, he is one of the well-known figures in the local community, associated with numerous events and contributions that have left a lasting impact. His work resonates with many, and it’s fascinating to learn about his importance and the legacy he has created, even if we are just starting to discover it ourselves.

The story began one early morning, when I was strolling through the vibrant streets of the city filled with a sense of adventure spirit. Suddenly, I was drawn in by an inviting energy pulsing through the atmosphere and felt compelled to step inside a café house, even though I don't usually drink coffee. Anticipating what I might find, I stepped inside and discovered a place brimming with character. It was filled with photographs, books, newspapers, an old typewriter and many other intriguing objects that told stories of their own. I was warmly welcomed by a waitress named Leon, whose kindness and pleasant demeanour made for an enjoyable initial conversation. As I enjoyed my first ever café latte in the city, a drink that seemed to embody the spirit of Zagreb I happened to glance at a photograph of a woman hang on the wall. I later learned that she was the writer's wife.

Suddenly, I noticed a woman sitting near the bar who bore a striking resemblance to the woman in the photograph. Without hesitating, I asked Leon, who was passing by, if she could be the daughter. Much to my delight, he replied in the affirmative and introduced me to Ana, the actual owner of this charming café and one of Milčec's daughters. This made my experience in this charming city even more enriching. We had a short conversation while enjoying the coffee. Before I left the café, she kindly offered me some typical souvenirs from the café and, of course, a packet of the coffee itself, which had a quote sticker on the packaging. 'The reality of a new day in this ancient city begins only with the first sip of morning coffee. Good morning, Zagreb!'

The café was established by Zvonimir Milčec, a Croatian writer, columnist, and journalist in 1995. He was widely recognised as one of the finest chroniclers and the 'good spirit' of Zagreb, dedicating his entire literary career to capturing the city's old-world charm, history, and urban identity. Annoyed and frustrated by the swift modernisation and commercialisation that stripped traditional Central European cafés of their genuine character, Milčec rdecided to create his own. He designed the café in the style of classic Austrian/Central European coffeehouses, yet infused it with the unique nostalgic essence of Zagreb. The interior was collaboratively designed with the renowned production designer Željko Senečić. The abbreviation k & k holds a dual significance: it refers to Kaiserlich und Königlich (Imperial and Royal, a nod to Austro-Hungarian history) while locally representing Knjiga & Kava (Book and Coffee).

Zvonimir Milčec was born on 3 September 1938 in Zagreb, where he also passed away on 17 April 2014. His native city was his main inspiration and an inexhaustible subject throughout his life. Milčec received his education in Zagreb, completing a secondary school in graphic arts, studying at the Academy of Fine Arts, and graduating from a journalism school in Belgrade. He was a professional journalist for his entire working life. He spent the greater part of his career at the Večernji list, where for decades he worked as a reporter, columnist, editor and assistant editor-in-chief, and was the editor-in-chief of the fortnightly magazine Zagreb Square.

Milčec was a regular columnist for the Jutarnji list for ten years, and later for the Večernji list again. In the final years of his life, he wrote for various online portals, adapting to the changing landscape of journalism and reaching a broader audience through digital media. His willingness to evolve and embrace new technologies speaks volumes about his passion for the written word and storytelling. Behind these brief details lies one of Zagreb's greatest chroniclers, a remarkable figure whose columns and feuilletons are often compared to the esteemed writings on Zagreb by three of the city's most prominent literary figures: August Šenoa, Antun Gustav Matoš and Vjekoslav Majer. Through his writing, he skilfully combined Zagreb's rich past with the complex themes of contemporary society, often warning of the looming threat to the city's unique urban character and advocating for its preservation in the face of modernisation.

Milčec left behind a collection of a dozen books dedicated to Zagreb, particularly its past history, which include books about the Dolac market, Dinamo, and the Zoo. His most famous saying about his beloved city – ‘Only Zagreb's women are more beautiful than Zagreb’ – became the title of one of his books, and others include ‘The Last Post Office, Zagreb’, “Zgode”, ‘Greetings from Zagreb’, and ‘Pedestrian in Zagreb’. The book “Do You Love Zagreb” was also published in English and German.

His professional journalistic experience is also evident in the novels for adults “In Zagreb Before Noon” (1973), “The Man of the Newspapers” (1997) and the collection “Current Stories” (2002). Although often deeply sentimental, his prose is written in a simple and clever style. Most of his books have been reprinted and have been translated into English, German, Russian and Polish. Some of his books have inspired as the basis for television documentary series, mock-documentary films and short art films, for which Zvonimir Milčec also wrote the screenplays, together with the director Mladen Juran.

In addition to being a journalist and writer, Milčec also contributed to Zagreb as the initiator or promoter of numerous actions, including the installation of a bronze monument to August Šenoa in Vlaška Street in 1988, a work by the academic sculptor Marija Ujević. He also campaigned for the return of the statue of Ban Jelačić to its square in 1990 (about which he wrote the book “The Return of the Ban”) and for the erection of a monument to Marija Jurić Zagorka in Tkalčićeva Street in 1991.

In recognition of his fifty-year career, Zvonimir Milčec  was awarded the “Otokar Keršovani” Lifetime Achievement Award in 2009, along with the “Grigor Vitez” literary award in 1976 and the “Mlado pokoljenje” award in 1977. Furthermore, in 1994, he was honoured with the City of Zagreb Award.

In 2014, Zagreb honoured its most famous pedestrian, the writer and journalist Zvonimir Milčec, by naming the park on the eastern side of Trnje Square after him.